The cowlick hairstyle, characterized by a section of hair that stands out or swirls against the natural grain, has intrigued humans for centuries. Despite being a common phenomenon, the cowlick is often misunderstood. This article explores the historical evolution and cultural significance of the cowlick hairstyle.
Cowlick Definition: A cowlick is a section of hair that grows in a different direction than the surrounding hair, often resulting in a noticeable swirl or tuft that stands up or out, defying standard styling efforts. How a cowlick presents can vary from person to person; some people have a lock of hair that stands straight up on top of their head, others have a lock of hair at the front of the scalp that curls around, when the rest of their hair is straight. Some people can have more than one cowlick. Until fairly recently, a cowlick was a description of an unruly hair lock in the hairline, but in the last few years, particularly with the advent of the internet, the name seems to have been applied to any tuft of hair that’s difficult to style. Probably the most common location for a cowlick is on the scalp vertex at the crown of the head, but less obvious ones can occur anywhere from the forehead fringe to the nape of the neck. This phenomenon occurs due to the orientation of hair follicles, which can be influenced by genetic and developmental factors.
What’s in the Name Cowlick: The term “cowlick” is derived from the pattern created when a cow licks its calf, leaving a swirl or tuft of hair sticking up. Cowlicks are sometimes mistakenly called calics (especially on tiktok for whatever reason). This naming nomenclature seems to come from how people pronounce cowlicks, but in most written articles and textbooks it’s a “cowlick” rather than a “calic”. The word was originally invented by combining “cow” with “lick”. It’s difficult to say exactly when the description of a cowlick first came into being. The phrase ‘cow lick’ is referenced in the “Táin Bó Cúailnge”, an Irish mythology epic first written down in the 1300s, probably from a much older oral tradition. In the Táin, a man is described as having fine, fair, close-cut hair ‘as if a cow had licked it’ (mar bó ataslilad).
The earliest use for the word cowlick in English is from 1598, by Richard Haydocke who translated an Italian book about painting, and included the line “The lockes of plaine feakes (feake is an old English word for “curl”) of haire called cow – lickes are made, turning upwards”. By the mid-1800s, the word was in common use though it seemed to refer to a very specific hair feature. A dictionary of English slang published at the time says: “COW-LICK, the term given to the lock of hair which costermongers and tramps usually twist forward from the ear; a large greasy curl upon the cheek, seemingly licked into shape.” Over time it seems this specific description of a cheek curl broadened into a word for any kind of hair lock that stands out from other hair.
Historical Evolution of the Cowlick Hairstyle:
Ancient Times: In ancient societies, hair played a significant role in social and cultural identity. The cowlick, however, was often viewed as an oddity. In Ancient Greece and Rome, hairstyles were typically elaborate and well-groomed, and deviations like cowlicks were often hidden or tamed using oils and other grooming tools. However, in some cultures, natural hair patterns were embraced. For example, certain African and Indo-European cultures celebrated natural hair textures and patterns, including cowlicks, as symbols of individual identity.
Middle Ages to Renaissance: During the Middle Ages, hair was often concealed under headgear, which diminished the focus on hairstyles like the cowlick. However, with the Renaissance came a renewed interest in personal appearance and grooming. Portraits from this period sometimes depict individuals with natural hair patterns, occasionally including cowlicks, suggesting a nuanced appreciation for natural beauty.
19th and 20th Centuries: The 19th and early 20th centuries saw significant changes in hairstyles. The cowlick, often considered unruly, was typically managed with pomades and other styling products. In the 1950s, for instance, the “greaser” subculture popularized the use of heavy styling products to create slicked-back looks that often concealed cowlicks.
Early to Late 20th Century: As the 20th century progressed more natural and free-form hairstyles were embraced. Tintin, a cartoon character originally from the 1930s, is a famous example that was drawn with a notable cowlick. The counterculture movements of the 1960s and 1970s often celebrated individuality and natural hair textures, including cowlicks. Icons like James Dean and Elvis Presley, who sported noticeable cowlicks, made this hairstyle appear rugged and rebellious.
Cultural Significance of the Cowlick Hairstyle:
The cowlick has held various cultural significances throughout history and in different parts of the world. In some cultures today, a cowlick is seen as a mark of uniqueness and individuality. In others, however, it is considered a minor imperfection to be managed or concealed.
Western Culture: In Western culture, cowlicks have often been associated with childhood. Many children exhibit prominent cowlicks, which usually subside or become less noticeable with age. This association with childhood has sometimes led to perceptions of cowlicks as playful or endearing. In contemporary Western society, the cowlick can be both a style challenge and a distinguishing feature. Celebrities and public figures with cowlicks often set trends, making the hairstyle more acceptable and even fashionable. For example, actors like Colin Farrell and musicians like Harry Styles have popularized the cowlick as a part of their distinctive looks.
Eastern Culture: In some Eastern cultures, hair patterns, including cowlicks, are believed to have spiritual or astrological significance. For instance, in Chinese face reading, different hair patterns, including cowlicks, can signify various personality traits or life paths. A prominent cowlick might be seen as a sign of a strong-willed or independent personality. More generally, a cowlick is regarded as an indication of a lucky person, particularly in the Philippines and Thailand.
Cultural Superstitions: An old superstition from Tajin, Mexico in the 1950s held that anyone with a cowlick was good at fishing. Apparently, to destroy the luck of a fisherman with a cowlick it was necessary to tie his little finger with a vine. One superstition that seems to still persist suggests that cowlicks are linked to whether a person is left-handed. This belief likely arises from the observation of natural asymmetries in the human body. While there is some scientific interest in how handedness and other asymmetrical traits develop, there is no proven correlation between cowlicks and handedness.
Embracing the Cowlick: In recent years, there has been a growing movement towards embracing natural hair textures and patterns, including cowlicks. This shift reflects broader societal changes towards accepting and celebrating individuality and diversity.
Celebrity Influence: Public figures and celebrities play a significant role in normalizing and popularizing natural hair patterns. The visibility of celebrities with cowlicks helps challenge conventional beauty standards and promotes a more inclusive understanding of beauty.
Social Media and Personal Expression: Social media platforms provide individuals with a space to share their personal hair journeys, including their experiences with cowlicks. These platforms foster communities that support and celebrate natural hair, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique hair patterns.
Conclusion: The cowlick hairstyle, characterized by a distinct clump of hair that defies conventional styling, has a rich and varied history intertwined with cultural significance. From its origins in the term “cowlick” derived from the curious pattern left by a cow’s lick, to its presence in ancient societies where hair was a marker of identity, the cowlick has evolved from an oddity to a celebrated feature. Throughout history, from the elaborate grooming practices of Ancient Greece and Rome to the Renaissance’s appreciation for natural beauty, the cowlick has been both concealed and embraced.
The modern acceptance of cowlicks reflects broader societal shifts towards celebrating diversity in appearance. As public figures and social media amplify the visibility of natural hair patterns, the cowlick has become a symbol of personal authenticity and expression. This evolution signifies a broader movement towards inclusivity in beauty standards, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique hair patterns with confidence.
Graphic N. Royal Irish Academy. 2020. Inside “A history of Ireland in 100 words”: Gruaig.
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Introduction: I get a few students contacting me looking for ideas on science projects about hair each year. This can be difficult because hair itself…
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