Organic hair dyes – henna hair dye

Since ancient Egyptian times people have used natural organic vegetable dyes to color the hair. This long history attests to their general safety, but also highlights their limitations. Potentially, there are many organic hair dyes, but only a few have maintained their popularity in the modern world. Traditionally, dyes derived from indigo, chamomile, logwood, walnut hulls, and various other plant sources were widely used. Today though the only vegetable dye still in widespread use is henna.

Henna Source: Henna is made from the ground up dried leaves and stems of the henna plant (Lawsonia inermis) that grows in North Africa, the Near East, and particularly in parts of India where much of the henna for hair dye is sourced. Henna is a deciduous shrub growing between 2.4–5 meters high. It is cultivated primarily for its dye and serves as a hedge plant in various Indian states. Remarkably adaptable to semiarid and arid conditions due to its low irrigation requirements, henna presents a valuable agricultural option in water-scarce regions. Its seeds are typically sown in March and April. The plant is harvested three to five times annually, yielding the highest quality product in early July and the lowest in February, allowing for multiple harvests each year.

Henna Hair Dye: The hair dye is usually green to look at in powder form because the dried leaves are green. This surprises some first time users, but the red color only appears once the dye powder is dissolved in solution and applied to the hair or skin. For application, the henna powder is commonly mixed into a paste using hot water and then applied to the hair. The resulting coloration adds a red tint to the natural hair color, with the intensity varying depending on the duration the henna paste remains on the hair. The use of henna as a hair dye has been around for a long time. Hair taken from the mummy of Egyptian pharaoh Rhamesses II, who died more than 3000 years ago, has been shown to contain henna hair dye.

Use of Henna Hair Dye: The impact of henna hair dye is incremental, often necessitating repeated applications over several weeks to achieve the desired effect. The result is relatively long lasting, and can be quite striking when done correctly. Henna hair dye is best described as a semi-permanent colorant, with its effects lasting an extended period of time. The final outcome of henna application can be modified. For instance, some online influencers suggest incorporating a brew of roasted tea leaves into the dye mixture, which can alter the end color towards a richer brown. Because the intensity of the henna dye is cumulative and builds up with repeated application, some experimentation is typically required to achieve the desired shade of color. The application process is relatively straightforward, readily integrating into routine home hair care.

Risks with using Henna Hair Dye: Despite the allure of henna and other plant-based dyes (Chamomile dyes being another example), there are risks associated with their use. They can provoke allergic reactions in some individuals. Unfortunately, there are a few case reports of people experiencing a very severe allergic reaction to henna, such that they ended up being hospitalized. For milder adverse responses, an allergy to henna can lead to scalp dermatitis, which may be itchy or even painful and may result in flaky scalp skin. Consequently, testing for any adverse response to the hair dye is an important step to make prior to using it. It should also be mentioned that some henna dye extracts contain high levels of contaminants such as lead and arsenic. As such, it may be best to obtain hair dye from reputable suppliers.

Patch Testing Adverse Responses to Henna: Before using henna hair dye, manufacturers say a patch test should be conducted on very small and less visible skin area, such as near the inner elbow, applying a small amount of the prepared dye solution. After following the dye manufacturer’s instructions for application and removal, the site should be monitored for a couple of days for any reactions. Immediate redness and itchiness post-application may indicate a severe sensitivity, while a delayed reaction could emerge after a day or two. Any adverse response necessitates avoiding use of the dye according to the manufacturers.

Henna Cultural Significance: The historical and cultural significance of henna cannot be overstated. Henna has been used not only for cosmetic purposes, but also in various cultural rituals across different societies. In many Middle Eastern and North African cultures today, henna plays a vital role in wedding ceremonies, symbolizing fertility and prosperity. Intricate henna designs are applied to the hands and feet of brides. The henna dye stains the skin making the pattern last on the skin for several days to weeks. For those who are allergic to henna, there are artificial alternatives available for these special occasions.

Henna Potential Medical Significance: The cultural significance of henna may be due in part to its traditional healing properties. Lawsonia inermis contains various bioactive compounds like flavonoids, coumarins, triterpenoids, and steroids. These phytochemicals have been shown to possess diverse pharmacological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antiparasitic, hepatoprotective, antifungal, antitumor, wound healing, and hypoglycemic effects. The Indian Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia recommends its leaves for treating skin conditions like pruritus and other skin diseases. The bark is also traditionally utilized for skin conditions while the essential oil from the blossoms is used for fragrance. While the compounds derived from henna hold potential as medical agents, research into their properties is very limited and it is unclear whether dye made from henna would retain any of these functions.

Henna Science: The science behind henna’s dyeing mechanism is also fascinating. The main coloring component in henna is lawsone, a molecule that binds to the keratin in hair (and keratin in skin epidermal cells), providing the distinctive red-orange tint. This binding process is gradual and can be influenced by various factors, including the hair’s original color, its porosity, and the quality of the henna extract. Unlike synthetic dyes that penetrate the hair shaft, henna primarily coats the hair, which can also result in some added volume and shine in addition to the reddish hair color.

Henna use Resurgence: In recent years, henna has seen a resurgence in popularity, partly due to the growing interest in natural and organic beauty products. Many consumers are turning to henna as a safer, more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic hair dyes. With the rise of the internet and social media influencers, the exchange of henna recipes and application techniques has become more accessible, enabling individuals to experiment and achieve a range of hues and effects.

Conclusion: In conclusion, henna is a versatile and natural option for those seeking an alternative to synthetic hair dyes. While it offers a range of shades and can be tailored to individual preferences, it is crucial to be aware of potential allergic reactions. As with any hair dye, proper testing and application are key to achieving the best results. The rich history and cultural significance of henna, coupled with its natural origins, make it an intriguing choice for both hair coloring and artistic expression.

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